Overview
Title: From Green to Blue, a Path Towards an Eco-Efficient Textile
Date: Thursday 21 January, 2021
Duration: 1 hour
Summary
Sponsored by Itaca Textile, this webinar welcomes three experts from the textile industry to each deliver presentations on sustainable textiles.
Mission Zero. Sustainable Product Engineering
Begoña Garcia Victoria, R&D Sustainable Processing Manager, Jeanologia
Sustainable Production of jeans is only possible by the implementation of New production models and the integration of technologies. From product design to finish product, Jeanologia offers integrated solutions to accomplish Mission Zero: A target to dehydrate and detoxicate textile manufacturing by 2025.
Policy, Industry and Digital
Sam Kawai, Strategist, Marketing Standard Limited
Sam will explain the EU’s directions to sustainable Europe and how digital printing can play its key role.
Case Study on Sustainability in Three Textile Printing Technologies
Xavier Betoret Villalba, Sales Manager, Itaca Textile
Analysis of existing printing technologies, with extensive analysis on environmental impact. Digital pigment printing as the means towards a green textile printing industry, making greener technologies affordable.
Speakers
Xavier Betoret Villalba - Sales Manager, Itaca Textile
Xavier works at Itaca textile in business development. With an industrial chemistry degree, Xavier joined Esmalglass-Itaca group in 2011, and has carried out different roles in the organization, including Technical service, Sales engineer and his current role as sales manager.
Sam Kawai - Strategist, Marketing Standard
Sam has more than 20 years experience in industrial digital printing, and also worked in the foreign direct investment field supporting projects between industry, government and academia.
Begoña Garcia Victoria - R&D Sustainable Processing Manager, Jeanologia
Begoña Garcia Victoria serves on the Innovation Team at Jeanologia as R&D sustainable processing leader. She focuses in promoting and implementing Jeanologia technologies as key elements for a more sustainable finishing industry.
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Transcript
This transcription has been AI generated and therefore may have some inaccuracies.
From green to blue, a path towards an eco-efficient textile
Sponsored by Itaca Textile, this webinar welcomes three experts from the textile industry to each deliver presentations on sustainable textiles.
Right well i think we've got quite a few people who have now joined so i think it's a good time to
kick things off so well hello everyone and welcome to today's webinar called from green to blue a path towards
an eco-efficient textile which is sponsored by itica textile and italica textile is a digital pigment
ink manufacturer and the company's inks are currently using over 1800 printers worldwide
the company boasts over 40 years of experience in inkjet printing a disruptive r d approach excellent
technical assistance and cutting-edge technological innovation
so today's webinar includes three presentations from industry experts so first up we have chavier betaret of
itaka textile secondly we are joined by sam kawaii of marketing standard limited
and last but not least we have begunya garcia of genologia so just to give you some background
about each of our speakers xavier works as sales manager for itica textile
and he's been with the company now since 2011 working in several different roles and
been involved with two innovative products both related to digital decoration
as the core technology elsewhere sam is a strategist for market standard
and has over 20 years of experience in industrial digital printing he has also worked in the foreign direct
investment field supporting projects between industry government and academia
and lastly we've got begunya she works on genologia's innovation team is r
d sustainable processing manager and she's worked at the company since 1997.
in this time she has led various projects focused on industrial solutions to garment manufacturing
and finishing process tech techniques so just a little housekeeping before we
get started um if any of you have any questions at all during the presentations
then please type them into the q a question box which you should be able to see on your zoom control panel
questions are not visible to other participants so don't worry you won't be interrupting anyone else
and and the plan is to respond to all of the well not all of these we've only got a limited time but to respond to some of
these at the end of each presentation so i think that's everything so with that i
think we will open today's webinar starting with xavier so over to you
okay thank you jessica well hello everyone and welcome to this webinar we will
share some some insight on on an environmental impact study we had a third party carry out recently
first let me introduce myself as jessica said i'm chavir veteret and i work as sales manager at itaka
textile before we we get to the topic
let me give you some some information about itaka itaka is part of the esma glaciatek
group a leader in in the ceramic fritz glaciers and and colors market
and well the group has been growing for the last 40 years with 1700 employees and present in 16
countries with 27 subsidiaries currently over 2.1 thousand million
square meters of ceramic tiles are printed with attackings worldwide each year we hold the lead in ceramic digital
printings with a 37 market share and our yearly turnover is about 450 million euros
back in 2012 we started diversifying into different markets where we found
our expertise in milling and dispersing high amount of solids would be useful and then itaka textile was born with the
vision to make sustainable textile decoration with pigment inks affordable to everyone i must say that all of our inks and that
includes ceramics and textiles are developed and produced in spain
you may all wonder why we gather you here today and that is to address one of the most pressing issues nowadays
pollution generated by textile industry before we get to the topic just to give
you some background i'm pretty sure all of you have heard the textile industry is the second most
polluting worldwide we got different sources stating the same and here are some highlights
nearly 20 percent of of world's wastewater is produced in the in the fashion industry
besides that dye bath water is rated as the most polluting doubling the impact of both facts
this alone would be a problem big enough to face but there's more to it as the end of the
life cycle of most garment is landfill with little to no circularity we are
facing an ecological emergency and we need to act quickly in order to
to know what kind of an issue we are looking at first let's take a look at the textile market as most of you may
know and according to to different sources textile market is about 500 billion square meters a
year and only seven percent of those textiles are printed and that is about 35 billion
square meters diving deeper into these figures several studies point out that total
digital printing accounts for a total of 10 percent whereas 47 percent is printed with dies through analog
processes and 43 is printed with pigment through analog processes
in that 10 percent that is digitally printed most of it is printed with dyes whereas
only two percent of those 35 billion square meters is printed with digital pigment inks
as mentioned we are here to share a study we had technical advice a consultancy firm carry out for
us in this study we compared three different printing technologies analyzing their impacts in terms of
water consumption energy consumption both thermal and electrical and co2 footprint they were compared
industrially at texatenia one of our customers and one of the leaders in digital textile printing in spain
we only took into account only production dependent features setup times were not considered in order
to disregard run length all of the fabrics comply with a major retailer's quality standard so quality is suitable
for fashion before we get into too much detail let us describe
briefly what these three processes are here we have the the three flux diagrams
dyes are soluble chemical that react with the with the fiber itself and pigments mechanically bind through a
binder to the fabric this chemical reaction that occurs with dyes
requires the steaming for it to happen but as these chemicals hydrolyze in water and the hydrolyzed chemicals need to be
washed out afterwards those two steps that are not required for pigment printing
are the most water and energy intensive processes involved in the print i would like to
remark that this study was carried out over a light viscose and using a heavier fabric would have
meant having bigger savings of water energy and co2
but let's get down to the to the actual results of our case study first for for those not familiar with
the technology the simplification of the workflow shows it we take the prepared fabric glitched and
and singed and then we we printed with a rotary
printer then we dried we stem it and we we wash it it's quite useful to apply a finishing
such as softness or any other chemical these are the data that we obtained in
our case study all of the units are are in in units per square meter and we require 12.57 liters
of water 3.28 kilowatt hours and 0.69
kilos of of co2 equivalent
then when we take a look at at reactive digital printing the workflow changes a little
bit because the the process for digital printing requires a preparation
the digital is is through a different process we are using drop of demand printheads here but due to this process
we are able to improve all of the figures by by quite a lot regarding water we are just consuming
6.65 liters per square meter 2.84 kilowatt hours
and 0.58 kilos of of co2 eq equivalent on the other hand
pigment digital printing has only started its expansion it offers huge huge advantages in terms
of flexibility due to its shorter process and allowing printing on any fabric composition
this technology allows lower time to market lower investment cost as well due to the
shorter process requiring less equipment moreover these figures are astonishing
we are just using 1.97 liters of water 1.39 kilowatt hours and 0.31 kilos of
co2 per square meter this technology had several technological barriers in the past
that have recently been overcome but let's look at each of the parameters
separately uh looking at the water consumption substituting
reactive analog printing by digital pigment printing can cut water consumption by 84 that's more than 10 liters per
square meter moreover the water used in in die printing usually contains lots of dissolved salts
which makes them more difficult to treat whereas wastewater generated by pigment printing
has some solids and suspension that are easily flocculated in the canteen
and just to give you a thought this uh this water is enough to quench
the thirst of 13 million people forever
looking at the energy consumption and this includes both thermal namely natural gas and electrical energy
reductions are as significant as 57 compared to to rotary printing
and this energy savings can provide energy to 350 000 people
forever and when we take a deeper look into co2 emissions the savings of
printing digitally with pigments are over 50 compared to printing with cylinders and reactive
dyes and those co2 savings are equal to
what's captured by 15.5 million trees again forever but uh well we are
far from being happy several sources indicate that digital pigment printing accounts only
for two or three percent of printed textile and yet these figures are are good enough
to take into account further efforts can take place currently looking at digital pigment
printing we can we can see that while we are saving enough water to punch the thirst
of 13 million people saving enough energy to meet 350 000 people electrical needs
and saving as much co2 as 15.5 million trees but
looking at the growth forecasted by several sources for pigment printing
we have the right to assume that we will reach 10 percent market share on printed textiles with
digital pigment printing by 2025. and well these figures are still better
so we are we are saving enough water to punch the thirst of 86 million people
we would be saving enough energy to meet the the electrical needs of 2.35 million
people and we will be saving as much co2 as 100 million trees would do
but again that that's far from enough our our target is is way past 10
10 percent is is just a milestone thank you for your attention you you got
there my contact details and well please feel free to shoot any
any questions you you may have i've seen some popping up but uh
let us get to that okay right well thank you very much for
that presentation that was well there are some really quite shocking stats there i thought anyway
i was surprised um we have got some time now for a few questions and there is one here and i'm
i think uh someone's just asked are these inks oil-based well they're not they're water-based
water okay well that's an easy one sorry i'm just reading through these i i
see that well we have ericoyano asking which part of the processes is this 1.97
liters coming from as you may know we we well several printers
use some glue to have the fabric attached to it and and we need to to be cleaning the belt that that has the
the fabric stuck so water is coming from from that process but this glue is is
quite easy to wash out um someone asked elsa's asked whether um
the inks are compliant with you know we could text blue sign sort of certifications well we have the
the echo passport by echotex we are working to get the the global organic trade standards as well
and we have the zero discharge of hazardous chemicals level three okay brilliant um and yes someone is
asked um what are the barriers to expanding beyond 10 i'm assuming they mean the market share
target that you've set well barriers are are many but
currently volumes are still quite low so processing costs are still a bit higher than what we would
like but still we we have done our our math and and most of our designs are
are cheaper to be produced with pigmenting so we need to to get rid of of these mindset that pigmentings are damaging
printheads or that well they're you're constantly cleaning because they're clogging nozzles and so on
those are past barriers that we had in the past but uh well honestly speaking those
those are no more over there okay and and on that sort of note someone
else has asked why you think that pigment inks only share about two percent of the market at the
moment why is that figure so low still well uh there there are two
factors for that as i said there were technological barriers for pigments and and dyes that are
soluble are easier to manage inside of a printhead so the
previously before digital printing we had like half the market was planted with pigments the other half
of the market was printed with dyes and when going digital as the the technological barriers were
not that high for for dyes people switched their production they were producing
analog and when they went digital they they started printing with dyes instead of pigments
okay i see um right i'll ask one or two more before we move on um
i found a gif on them but i uh scrolled past it and what type of printers can you use
your ink on do you have your own printer on the market no we do not manufacture
printers that that's something that we must say we're specialists we're chemists all of
our board of management is it has either engineering or chemical engineering or chemical background
and we are chemists we are you're not electrical engineers we let that for other professionals that know very well
how to do that so we have two sets of ink depending on the on the print head that
our customers are using or assembling in their printers we might suggest one or the other the
the difference between both sets is just their their viscosity to shoot
one or the other printhead okay and the last question then someone is asking
about price comparison between sort of the different inks available in the market
well uh from our experience like it happens in in analog printing
the consumption of pigment inks is higher than that of of reactive dyes
and currently as volumes are not as high as they are with reactive dyes
processing costs are slightly higher than those of of reactive dyes
but there are other advantages as i said there are two steps that are energy and
water intensive that we are not taking and you need to pay salaries to run those those pieces of machinery
and you need to pay for the energy and the water so having a shorter time to market
it also has a certain price also we control quality right after the print
we don't have to steam and wash so quality is improved by by digital pigment printing so the
overall cost the total cost of ownership in most models is very competitive with
dice if not better okay right brilliant and we have got many more questions but we're not going
to have enough time perhaps we can sort of get back to these people after the webinar i'm not sure if that's feasible
but um we'll see if we can work something out but now i think it is uh yeah thank you
chavio but i think next we've got to move on um so our second presentation
and we've got sam uh sam take it away
okay thank you jessica okay let me just up the put it share the screen okay
do you see it's okay right so uh
let me start so my name is sam kawaii i'm from japan live in uk for maybe a
little more than half of my life and first of all happy new year to everyone
and we wish 2021 is the better year than 2020 i hope so and i am working for the
marketing standard limited business service based in uk providing market development
and growth strategies for corporate clients and public sector
my focus is digital production and inject technologies i'm a strategist and i make corporate strategies for
living so today i would like to talk about uh how policymakers
industry and digital can complement each other and grow together
so okay
right so live with kobe what did you find and well cleaner here the e-commerce
and remote work and supply chains fragile and also my i always ask myself
is my job secure but all these uh the questions i
summarize it's a environmental sustainability is important and digital transformation is coming
transformations coming to my life industries and also to the supply chain then
also i questioned myself is my job secure means are we still competitive in the market
actually those points are nothing new those are also already the incorporated the eu's
european unions or priorities and then the name is a european green deal
so plan since long time ago
so what is the european green deal
it says the main point is turning climate and environmental challenges into opportunities
and that's a plan to make eu's economy sustainable and one of the six priorities of
european commissions between 2019 to 2024 and become greenhouse gas
neutral by 2050 and economic growth is decoupled from resource use
i want to talk a little bit more about the policy makers policy maker miss government
i used to work for the uk government for the economic development and the main target of those governments
are a job creation a better society improve people's life
so they call that a growth so the most important part of the growth is really a
job creation so for supporting the growth the
government makes laws and regulations directives and also they give us grant incentives
financial support those are basically characteristic
so i said this european green deal is one of the six priorities of european
unions so what they are european green deals your fits for the digital age the economy
that works for people stronger europe in the world promoting our european way of life
and new push for european democracy mean some of them are very political but the important things the economy and
also these priorities are made by more like a global influences like
sdgs or sustainable development goals and also the competition is hard against say
asia with north america and also the paris accord and circular
economy so those are just giving a push to the priorities
so to support these priorities there's a budget so this is a current
basically the there was a seven years budget usually from the european union and then up
until 2020 so really now there's a budget called horizon
2020 so that was 80 billion euros researching innovation and budget so
then the last really last moment in the 1 billion euros are going to this
european green deal so you can see the european green deal is really a one of the focus main focus
of the european union so then uh 2021 another new
seven years plan is coming for the research and innovation budget which called horizon europe that is even
bigger 100 billion 100 million euros budget so we can imagine this
a lot of funding the government funding is going to the european green deal too
so the european green deal is making a lot of action plans and
strategies and there are really many of them and started from 19 2019 so quite recently but there are two
uh strategies and options uh i'd like to just focus on
because these two are related to textile industries and also the digital technology as well
so the first one european industrial strategy so the there are three points green
transitions global competitiveness and digital
digital as well so if i just go into a little more detail
so achieving industrial transformation so there are a few the points
over there says [Music] a deeper and more digital single market
upholding the global level playing field supporting industries towards climate
neutrality building a more circular economy embedding spread of
industrial innovations skilling and rescuing investing and financing the transition
so all this can translate it to say eu supposed industries to be
sustainable by investing in digital innovations
so the second one the circular economy action plan so basically those are the plan to
change the way we consume and the way we produce and modernize and
transform our economy while protecting the environment so basically those are saying that
we are living in a linear economy basically we just produce something consume it and throw it away so we want
to change this to more circular way so then they made a survey
uh asking the european citizens that what is your biggest environmental concern and then the one
of the answer was a waste the waste was concerned and then to look into the
different industries which one is wasteful and then they picked up the five example wasteful areas so
these are the five the tech cells you need the others are food and packaging
electronics are ict but basically this is like electronic gadget and the plastic waste
and then just waste itself so those are actually very much related to digital
so this makes a little bit worried that there's more kind of restriction towards the industry
but in actual fact as i said in the beginning the european green deal is turning climate and
environmental challenge into opportunities so these are actually the opportunities
for the industry so we can expect more carrots
okay so why textile is really having a bad name it's really
because of me consumers because we are really demanding
and i want unique products and i want a good quality product and i want the price lowest and also i
wanted it now so on top of that i also want to the products more ethical
so all these are the pressure to the to the producers
so mass production system has been really developed uh over the
years but it's invented 19th centuries and then over the time
it developed to meet the customer's demand but what this system is good at is producing
large volume and competitive price and then consistent quality so these are the good
thing of mass production system but then me the consumer comes and putting a lot of demand i want a product
now and i want a unique product and so on but this system is not really good that
flexible production like small volume or large variety of you know the frequent change of the
specification they kind of cope with it so they give an answer the system gives an answer
okay yes we can produce more volume we can produce even cheaper and we can
keep a good quality that's a in certain way that's a good news for
consumer because you can buy good quality products in lower cost but this is a massive pressure for the
producers and also certainly not good for the environment
so cut it short basically we consumers
having a low demand and that is really a crush against the mass production system and
that is just creating a lot of sustainability issues
so currently these customers brand owners producers and
also the policy makers which are governments they're like in the triangular fight
they all each of them are wishing something good
so brandon wants a brand image want a good profit and share price to be high producer one happy customers competitive
and also they secure the old and profit a good business to be continuously
one that continues then the government see more want to create more jobs uh want to make citizens be living a
nice life but actually the actions they are taking are really uh against each other and
it's making a lot of conflict so this kind of relationship doesn't last long
so uh as shabir said from itaka yes textile industries are
making a lot of environmental issues but industry cannot
run 100 clean so what we can do yes each process has to be reviewed each
process can be more modernized to reduce the waste and toxic and weight
for the environmental damage but the what the best way is to reduce overall the volume of
production and that can affect all the process to be more sustainable
so how to do that actually digital can take a very important part of it
so digital is not only production yes okay digital printing can produce a
beautiful product and then with the less environmental damage
and also digital process can help also the sustainable issues but digital
can be used for digital marketing it can be social media it can be online
shopping and and so on and also digital can handle the data payment
logistics and so production management and supply chain management and so on so basically
the digital can give a design freedom on demand production real time trend capture efficient
workflow and all these things are working well for the environment as well as also the businesses
but the what digital is very different from the traditional manufacturing is because
digital can connect all these new technologies together and then also digital is always bringing
the new ideas and always expanding
so traditional supply chain is depend on the forecast texas fashion
industry and then you need to just rely on someone saying this is going to be trendy
and then let's produce and then after that just hope to sell well and then if you cannot sell
that goes to the unsold items disposal or you have to heavily discount to get rid
of it but imagine in the future with digital technology
you can receive order and sell and then receive a payment upfront before production
so that would be very good for reducing the waste and also reducing inventories
so because of digital this triangular relationship
can be quite good one so digital can give added value
speed to market short term run time reduce inventory reduce disposal and
better cash flow and also for the government there's new skills
better workplace a potential reassuring and sustainability ghost to be met
and of course reduced waste pollution energy co2 this is good news for all of us
so government can give more character
and i talked about up to another public spending it's a grant incentive and support
coming from the government but also the private investment is important so they are coming from bank
fund venture capitals and so on the those two spendings are monitored by
say public spending is monitored by taxpayers and then also the investors are
monitoring the private investment whereas my money is going to be spent for so recently
the investment for the suspense sustainability technology is growing and then at the same time they want to
reduce a non-sustainable investment so for instance recently
the banks there's a quite a few banks are
pressurized by the investors that they should reduce the funding to the
core power station which is owned by a large energy company
to reduce investment because it's not really sustainable
so i summarize i talked about the direction of future europe and what digital can do and then public
and private investment trend so now the money is limited because of
corvid so where to invest it should be digital
okay thank you very much that's all from me and take care and stay safe so if you have a
question please throw it i can answer now or parts later
thank you very much okay right well thank you very much sam
that was really interesting um as he said we have got some time
for some questions so again put that in the q a box if you've got any
um just waiting for any to come through um i guess i've actually got a question
um when it comes to digitalization [Music] people from what i've understood can
panic they don't know where to start or they're a bit skeptical so do you think we're going to have to change our
mindset somewhat to achieve this yeah yes uh very good question and i always ask
myself that you know i'm interested in sustainability and then i'm interested in technology but what i'm
doing actually as a person and then just okay you can put this recycle things in the right place and so
on it's a very very small thing but i think these small things are quite important because
for instance what the eu european union's a priority said it's a basically circular economy we
need to change ourselves and our mindset that am i buying this okay i'm buying
this product is this really sustainable is this really necessary and then so each of these actions are
influenced to the producers the producer makes when they make products they have
to think the same way okay we design these products and is this really sustainable is this really
in the meaning the good for the consumers so each of us change our kind of mindset
and that goes to sustainability and then the digital is really uh maybe on only one of
only technologies we can really influence sustainability okay
interesting um just saying here um oh someone's got an observation
um oh some others coming through bear with me
um okay we've got less this time round maybe people are just absorbing all that yeah too much
information i'll ask one more question nick before we move on
um so when it comes to um this then
um i think it said earlier on in the slide that this new horizon plan is up until 2027.
yes okay um are we expecting to achieve all this in that time or is this realistically
going to take many more years yeah sure the i mean the one of the goal
was to be a carbon neutral by 2050 so the
well because of this the say research and innovation support is
always seven years so we can expect after this horizon europe because another seven years
is coming and so on and so on so yes it's going to it's going to be a uh it do take a long
time to achieve the really the society circular economy with the carbon zero
but step by step where we're getting there definitely i guess there's so much um so
many businesses whether it's established at this point that to disrupt it and throw everything in the air and change how you do it that is
gonna take quite some time okay well thank you again sam for that
and if anyone else has further questions then we'll try and get back to you um afterwards um but now for our last
presentation then um i'm going to hand things over to begonia so take the reins
hi hello thank you and just give me one second to prepare
everything okay so i guess you are seeing my screen now yes okay so uh thanks to everyone to be here
and a special thanks to winteen and to itaka for the organization of this event
and for inviting us also i'm begonia garcia representing a genealogy which is a company
based in a beautiful and useful sunny city here in valencia and what we do is we
supply sustainable solutions for the textile industry through the
delivery of technologies tools and new production models
uh so we started in 1994 as technical consultancy and at the time when we started our
consultancy was really oriented to the optimization of garmin finishing processes
and we were focusing on water and energy reduction
and chemical selection in order to avoid those chemicals that are more hard sellers and trying to
eliminate all the manual work that is having a huge impact
in worker health but we reach a point where we realize that in order to keep
improving in this direction the garment finishing industry which is a
very artisanal and high resource intensive industry we needed to integrate technologies and
this is how in 1999 we launched our first laser and then in 2003 we opened
our own laser production unit in in barcelona area
and in we inaugurate our ecoline for uh washing with our g2 ocean technology
in 2005. and from there you know you see this a huge
movement on new technologies and tools that we are supplying and keep you know
improving and integrated into the the industry so we can probably say that today uh
about 30 percent of the genes produced in the market he uses at least one of our technologies
and this helps the planet to save around 50 millions of cubic meters of water per
year right uh also you know i when i joined the company in 1997 the
team was four and about eight people and today we are more than 25 different
genealogies of uh multiple nationalities
so we were born with this mission of transforming the textile and the apparel
industry into a more ethical and sustainable one and probably because this consultancy
background right the way we are transferring this into the industry is partnering with our customers
and helping them to accelerate this necessary transformation
genealogy operates in two areas of the garment of the garment manufacturing
which are the fabric finishing and and garment finishing and those areas are the more intense in
in resources and even though we you know we our technologies can serve
many different segments of the apparel and today i'm going to concentrate on
what is still today our core business which is the uh then then in production
so uh linked with our mission and with a strong belief on the dating production and
transformation is possible we have committed ourselves to achieve the total dehydration and the
test intoxication of the denim industry by 2025. so we know that we alone cannot reach
this target and so i will take the opportunity of today and link with my two colleagues of of
today right invite you all to join this museum zero
program and reach you know this global purpose before
and the date that the governments are are giving us
our proposal for this mission zero combines all these different
technologies right that are supplied by genologia and laser awesome technology for a fabric
finishing and for a garment finishing eflo which is a technology that uses
air instead of water as a chemical carrier and the last system that we have
developed which is a kind of a you know online or backpack online
cleaning and water reusing system called h20 and all these technologies are
combined with specifically made tools such as lsf which is a
licensing fabric test blue scan or digital design software and even
a standard that help us to measure monitor quantify improvements and also allows
you know to make responsible declarations knowing and the resources that has been
a use in in in in the production
every of these technologies by itself if we integrate in conventional finishing processes
can bring already a substantial improvement but is when we put all these
technologies together that we can you know bring new production models and and
help you know an impact in a positive way all the three aspects of sustainability people
planet and profit so this uh sustainable approach and jessica you
mentioned it before about the mindset right needs a different production roots and
the and and needs as well different mindset right and i would underline the mindset that's
that's really key and important right and in order to be able to produce as
as as you know with a 100 or the most sustainable
possible we have developed a a protocol called product engineering
protocol why that we suggest for specifically for that then improve production this
protocol considers material selection design sample development and production scalability
so let's say the full the full value value chain is included into this
this production protocol so uh the first step would be the material selection
right so to know what it it it is going to be the reaction of the materials that we
use then in fabric in in this case and how they will react to the technologies
and processes that are going to be using in in the manufacturing process we have developed
both things right the standard to to analyze the reaction which is the light
sensitive fabric test and a the equipment for a digital
an objective assessment right which is this blue scan which is a technology based on a
white white laser and just to add a little more of information
on this fabric exhalation normally those fabric that has been finished using the g2 dynamic which is the
ozone technology for fabrics usually i give better lsfs scores and
in addition you know we will see that this is affecting positively in in the water usage so we
are reducing considerably water and energy in depth in the fabric finishing
so now that we have the the information of the materials that we want to use
we can start work indeed you know designing and producing our digital samples so
designing in a digital way through the e-designer software and with the designer what we can ensure
is what we are seeing in the screen is what we are going to to get in a in a real sample right so
uh this way the process of designing because becomes a kind of collaborative
collaborative process right between the uh brand designers and
the supply chain partners right where you know they can share creativity along
along their full value chain and and get the best possible results and
digital design it was mentioned by mr it's offering a lot a lot of benefits
and potential right but i i would say that the biggest impact or the immediate impact that we can
quantify comes from and the reduction on the on the lead time for development right so
that can be reduced by by month but also we will be able to eliminate all those
unnecessary expenses right of multiple examples you know flying from one place
to the other and also you know complete development teams flying from you know their decision
centers to the different production sites right so uh yeah i would say that these are the key
areas where we can you know start really measuring what are the benefits of
of digital digital designing right once the digital design is done right
we have already our digital sample and then we want this to to be sent into reality to a sample that
we can wear so the design along will be sent to the manufacturing sites
along with a process uh a finishing process right and this will
be sent to a laundry 5.0 5.0 sites or
[Music] to what we call urban factories right
the difference between these two production sites are mainly the the size and the location
but both are equipped with all the necessary equipments right all the necessary
technologies to produce genes with zero contamination
talking again about the the two differences between the two sides right and it's uh as mentioned the size and
the production capacity so the urban factories and the idea is to have urban factories
located uh much closer to the to the consumer right and so that could be for
an on-demand production right so we will having a pre a wash based coming from
the mass production site which will be a probably place in in typical production areas
right sending this um these garments to the uh closer to the final consumer and
adding the value right once the a consumer has decided
what is er what it what he wants right and making this uh completing this uh
consumer demand that was being mentioned by mr er kawahi in his presentation
right um this on demand manufacturing will have a direct impact on those
thousands of garments that are uh going to sales because you know
needs to be to go to sales or a that goes directly to the waste without even being worn so um
i i've read a lot of reports in the late in the in the late latest
months about the quantity of garments that are directly sent
to waste which is one of the main sustainable uh problems for for sustainability of of
textiles right so this this can be solved with the on demand production and with
this concept of you know a complementing uh production sustainable production
with on-demand production still you know without a with zero contamination so the
last step of this product engineering protocol and really with the aim of confirm and
monitor but especially to to motivate further improvement with regards to the environment and the end
the eim software will classify each of the process applied in one garment
as low medium or high impact process and will give a data which is accurate
enough to know and the resources that has been used to produce gun garment right this
information it's very important for for of course for the producer to improve their
output it's important for the brands to understand and how their product has been made but
it it's also important for the consumer to decide and what are the you know
products they want they want to buy and understand how these products are impacting and the environment right
so all this proposed working protocol which seems easy but it's not so much
right uh starting from you know the fabric finishing
material selection digital design production in laundry 5.0 or urban factories and monitor with eim
ends up with an amazing sustainable product and an amazing price right without
really you know increasing the cost of one sustainable environment
just adding some figures right and and so for for everyone to understand and
what we are talking about right and what are the benefits of of shifting from one production system
to another right here focusing only in water we can see that
uh with the new uh proposed production models we can go from 82
liters needed for to produce just one pair of jeans to only 3.5
liters per gene right and i just wanted to mention that in in in the in the world
every year and no less than four four thousand millions of of genes are produced
all right here uh you see there is a another um graphic to illustrate
how we are redefining and the garment finishing processes right shifting from one and conventional
um washing model to a process integrating and different
different technologies right and as you see the savings in the four categories that are
measured and consider under eim ah it's it's it's really really really huge
so uh i just would like you know to finish my presentation with short video
to confirm our mission statement and and hopefully also to motivate all of you
to join us in in the purpose so let me just play the video
thank you
okay brilliant thank you very much for that begunya um i think i saw your technology at it a
couple years ago yeah was so quick they just switched around i thought it was great
yes okay yes i think we've got a couple of
questions here um someone asked an interesting one they said is it possible to digitally
print the effects on genes i don't know what your thoughts are on that
yes and no so let's say that uh
you will you know the reason to finish a pair of jeans is to imitate the aging process of a garment right
and here you know it's kind of a lot of shadows and and and small details right
uh and and and also you know we have this fabric with such a big character which
is the denim right which uh combines the different you know and the white threads with the
with the blue ones and and uh there's some attempts have been done
with the digital printing and and it it gives a very nice product but it's
not a hundred percent uh then embrace so i think that bring
digital printing and and and then infinity and then in a production and finishing and are really
complementary but i'm not one is not going to replace the other so i think that they can
create we can create amazing products mixing both of them and that we can you know yeah that's the
imagination you know it's yeah it's uh it's the magic for the designers right because they have both
tools together to play with and i think that yeah this this in the future will
will you know increase you know this this this amazing uh
process of designing okay another someone else asked whether these
are commercially available yet and i think you did say that um that they are are you able to mention
any brands that people may have heard of where this technology has been used
yeah well you know i mean there's a lot of brands and working with
binologia technologies uh they are you know some of them are using the aim
and together with different technologies and publishing it so uh one of the
companies we have been working very close and that has you know have play a big role in the
development of all the technologies has been you know levi's which is really you know
one of the leaders in in in in in then in finishing okay great
um yeah there's quite a few people saying where can i buy these jeans
well there are many many you know many different stores which you can find
really really high in a genes and and as mentioned you know more than 30 percent
are produced using technologies for genealogy and there are a huge a big number of
brands including you know h m uh
american eagle that are you know publishing some uh reports using the aim so uh
these are available products today right that that everyone can can buy
okay just one more question then because i'm aware that we're we've gone past three o'clock now here in the uk
so um uh there was a picture there in your presentation with a tag on your
jeans that said genealogy do brands have to use a tag with your
logo on so that consumers know they're made with your technology or is that not a requirement
it's not a requirement right so it's a brand decision if you if you know it's kind of giving
information to the final consumer about how the genes are wearing has been made but it's it's it's not a compulsory to have
the genealogy and technologies and to brand it so it's it's you know uh like the
intel inside right so you are not really showing always what are the technologies
that are behind your products so i would say that the more important thing is is the
product the design behind a brand right and then we we are you know we have been born
to be working in the shadows right so we are going to be there supporting everyone but you know not
needed to have our name on the product okay like we are comfortable we'll get
in the shadows [Laughter] i i like that question because i only
ask because um consumers um might not because there's so many g's on the market and not all of
them are made with sustainable technologies maybe consumers are confused about which to go for so that's
why i asked about the uh yeah okay right well um again i think
we've got probably obviously not been able to answer all questions so i'll see if we can try and get back to those and maybe
split them to the right uh presented to see if they can answer those
but yeah thank you for that began yeah that was brilliant right then guys um i think that's all we
have time for today um on behalf of everyone i'd like to thank chevy yes sam and begonia for
taking part today they really were great presentations and we've had comments about people saying they were great so
there's some feedback for you um i'd also like to thank everyone watching as well because we really do appreciate
your support and uh hopefully you all found it interesting as well there have been some questions about
whether you can receive this webinar and the slides afterwards um i believe there will be a copy of
this webinar being sent to all participants later on so do um look out for that um in the meantime
thank you very much again everyone and we hope to see you next time say goodbye
goodbye thank you