Ep. 90: Making circular fibres from kelp

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Ep. 90: Making circular fibres from kelp

This month, WTiN talks to Tessa Callaghan, one of the co-founders and chief executive officer at Keel Labs about its kelp-derived innovation, Kelsun.

WTiN
Hello, and welcome to textile innovation hosted by WTiN. My name is Ruby, and I'm the news editor and your podcast host. Each month, we're going to be joined by a brand new special guest. So join me and my colleagues as we deep dive into what's new, what's interesting and what unmissable innovations have hit the market recently, we cover everything on the podcast from sustainability to startups and the latest research and developments. And we also quiz the experts in the fields about their new products and ideas across a huge spectrum that is the textiles industry. So no matter what your interest is, WTiN have you covered and we can connect you to everything you need to know right here from our central hub in the UK. In this episode, we talk to Tessa Callaghan, the co founder and CEO of Keel Labs over in the US, we will be talking about its technology that turns seaweed into textiles, while scaling up is important and what Tesla's opinion is on sustainability and textiles going hand in hand in the future.

WTiN
Firstly, thank you so much for taking the time to speak to me. I'm very excited to delve into this more with you.

Tessa Callaghan
Yeah, likewise, they're excited to be here and chat more about the work that we're doing.

WTiN
And let's go into the basics. So why don't you tell me a bit about yourself and your history up into this point?

Tessa Callaghan
Sure. Um, there's a I'm sure, there's a very long story to that, but I'll lean to the short one. So my name is Tessa Callaghan. And I am one of the cofounders and CEO here at Keele labs, where we are developing new materials for the circular economy and in particular with fibres and yarns that are made from California, my background, or I guess I started off in the industry in design and in fashion, in particular with a focus on knitwear development and textiles.

WTiN
So for those who are listening who haven't heard of a company before, why don't you tell us a bit more about what Keel labs does and why it does what it does?

Tessa Callaghan
Sure. So as I'm sure many of us are privy fashion, in particular, and textiles are one of the most polluting industries on the planet and at Keel labs, we are working to help brands and the industry as a whole to transition into beneficial materials and the circular economy. So we do is find solutions and in particular with our flagship product Kelsen, we are developing yarns and fibres that are derived from kelp, which is a seaweed and you know, acts as one of the most beautifully beneficial organisms on the planet, from reducing ocean acidification to capturing co2 to you know, help rebuilding dead zones in the ocean, there's kind of an endless list of why it's such an incredible organism. And for us, it really works as the inspiration and the backbone of the materials that we create. So that as we look at the Textile and Fashion supply chains, we are able to replace from the get go the toxic practices, chemicals, raw materials with ones that are beneficial for the planet, all the while removing and replacing the toxic chemicals that are used throughout the production as well so that from start to finish, you have something that is better for the planet and better for people as well.

WTiN
The company recently underwent a huge rebrand, do you want to tell us a little bit about that?

Tessa Callaghan
Absolutely. So we recently launched and rebranded from algae nit to keel labs, and with our primary product, which is called Kelsen. And we had the privilege and opportunity to work with pentagram and Michael Bay route and the fantastic team that he's leading there in order to really look at what our impact is on the future and why we're really here. And although algae net functioned, and really helped us to grow and establish ourselves as a company, when we're thinking about our core intentions, it's really about our interaction, and you know, interference, in a way with planetary systems, and in particular with the ocean. So for those that may not know, a keel is part of a ship that basically keeps it at an equilibrium with the ocean. So balance is the manmade interaction with marine ecosystems, while also allowing it to stay afloat and, and propel itself forward. And so really, when we look at how we want to think about innovation, it's really about balancing that fine line between our species and the ocean and the planetary systems that we work with to create better futures and propel ourselves forward as fast as possible. And when it comes to how we want to be thinking about that, making sure that innovation is at our core and that we're really able to expand our horizons and think in novel ways. And so really wanted to kind of contain both of those both in keel and in labs to make sure that we're constantly in graining our core values in the work that we're doing and the ways that we're communicating and how we really function as a team and as a company.

WTiN
So as you said, your technology is made from kelp, why is it that you chose this as a base for your products?

Tessa Callaghan
So we chose kelp as the core backbone for the inspiration and work of our company, because as we were founding our ideas back in, I guess it was 2016. Now, with myself and my co founders, Alex Kruszewski, and Aaron Neser, we reviewed what was kind of going on in the textile landscape and even in the materials landscape, and really wanted to see how can we access something from the get go, that doesn't contribute to the plethora of negative impacts that we see in the materials that we use today? You know, obviously, that's not fossil fuel based. And unfortunately, the way things stand now for us that's not land based, either. So it really forced us to look at the oceans look at what is abundant, what is beneficial, what are we able to get access to, and that's also accessible on a global scale. And so it really narrowed our focus, of course, into aquaculture and seaweeds. And, you know, inevitably kelp, which, you know, as I mentioned, is extremely beneficial for the planet and has existing supply chains, which is really fantastic. When we think about needing to expedite our journey to scale.

WTiN
Where are you getting this kelp from? Is this grown in house? Or is it collected locally? And is there a specific type that you use?

Tessa Callaghan
So one of our kind of core values or core focuses is to uplift existing supply chains? So you know, although kelp is integral to our work, we also want to be able to work with global suppliers around the world who are experts in the field who have experience in, you know, both the harvesting and the extraction processes. And so we work with suppliers and multiple continents to ensure that we're diversifying our supply chains and, you know, learning and expanding more and helping to be a force for the literal growth of crop harvesting, which is fueled by a lot of global initiatives to rectify or mitigate the impact that climate change is having.

WTiN
So are there any intrinsic properties that make the capsule valuable? Have an IT being sustainable, which is obviously a huge plus? Are there any value added properties like strength? Or is it anti microbial, for example, anything like that?

Tessa Callaghan
So kelp and the biopolymers that we work with have a lot of unique properties and ones that we will continue to study and certify. And for any new material, that's, you know, not a legacy fibre or you know, raw source, there is inherently going to be different performance factors, different benefits, different drawbacks. And so that's really the core focus of our scientific team to make sure that we're elevating those unique properties, while also ensuring that we're producing and creating end products that have the familiarity and desirability that consumers are looking for.

WTiN
How do these yarns compared to ones that are already on the market? They as durable, flexible and washable?

Tessa Callaghan
Yeah, absolutely. So our materials are quite similar to that of viscose while also having the look and feel of cotton. And so one of the things that we want to make sure we're doing is working with our brand partners, and you know, also getting feedback, of course, from consumers to say, you know, what are the properties that you're really looking for? How can we make sure that we're continuing to tailor and diversify what we're offering?

WTiN
And How scalable is this process? Obviously, we really need these sustainable replacements. But we also need them on like a huge mass scale to really make the difference. Is there potential for this to be produced for the mass market?

Tessa Callaghan
That is an excellent question, and really a founding principle of you know, why we started kill labs. So of course, as we were, you know, working in the field and the industry as designers really understanding that not only in order to create impact, but also to increase accessibility, you need to be able to scale and how are you able to do that as quickly as possible because we need solutions yesterday and not in 20 years. And so for us, both from our raw material standpoint, and the accessibility that Calvinists biopolymers provide, but also from the manufacturing side, we are able to plug into existing manufacturing infrastructure so that we're able to basically not reinvent the wheel and make sure that those economies of scale have already been proved out. And all we have to do is basically this process of plug and play where you know, our materials go directly into the infrastructure that's been at scale for decades, if not centuries?

WTiN
And are these materials biodegradable? And if they are, how long does this take to happen? And, again, if they are how does this compare to regular non kelp materials?

Tessa Callaghan
Our material is biodegradable and ideally compostable. That being said, you know, one of the core focuses that we're looking at is, you know, making sure that we're creating the right claims and certifications around each stage of that. Because of course, when you're talking about biodegradability, and bio content and compostability, there are so many standards or different certifications that you want to make sure that you're providing. That being said, you know, we're having really promising results when it comes to composting. And that's really a core mission of what we're doing is to make sure that we're using strictly naturally derived materials so that they can remain in the natural circular ecosystems so that whether it lands up in a landfill, whether it's in your own compost, whether that goes back into the ocean, rather than polluting, it's able to degrade and return to the Earth's natural ecosystems and cycles as nutrients.

WTiN
Where is this material currently being used? Can is it Apparel is it haram textiles, for example?

Tessa Callaghan
The benefit of fibres and yarns and the beauty of that which is the use cases are so diverse, I mean, from your cotton t shirt to your cotton linens to you know, your cotton balls that you use on your face for an example to show kind of where cotton is, is so ubiquitous in our daily lives for Kia labs, and primarily for Kelson, our flagship yarns, we're starting with the fashion industry and in particular apparel to help to you know, provide the solutions to brands that really need to change the way that they're working. However, there are so many other areas that we want to make sure that we're touching on as well. I mean, it's not only fashion that uses textiles, and, and means these raw materials. So we see a lot of promise in other industries, from interiors to automotives to industrial applications. And so that's definitely something that we're really eager to explore and easier to collaborate on as well. 

WTiN
Wonderful. So on to something a little bit more broad. Now, just to kind of get your opinion and your kind of view on this. What do you think that the future of textiles looks like in terms of sustainability, and those two things going hand in hand?

Tessa Callaghan
I think that when we look at the future, and how that really needs to function, I think diversity is the underlying theme. And you know, one of the primary reasons that I see that, you know, there's so much pollution and toxicity around the ways that we currently operate on a global scale is that we think very narrowly about what we currently use, and you have these big categories that are really just, you know, single products be that cotton, or polyester or nylon or wool, you can, you know, probably list all of those categories on both hands at best. And so when we're looking at the future of textiles and raw materials as a whole, in order for us to really achieve positive and you know, literally truly sustainable futures, we need to be able to diversify and expand the range and the crops and the ways in which we produce so that when you go into your closet, it's not a single source. It's a diverse range of different raw materials, and different methods of production, to make sure that we're not overdoing and then polluting just with a single source.

WTiN
Yeah, completely. So last couple of questions. Now, really, obviously, as we've talked about before, at the start, you've gone through this huge rebrand. I wanted to ask anyway, is there anything that we can expect in the near future from cure labs? Is anything in the pipeline, any new innovations you can tell me about?

Tessa Callaghan
Absolutely. So one of the things that we're really excited to share. And that's also, you know, a core component of kill labs launch is kind of the first sneak peeks of our textiles and the various constructions that we've explored just as an internal team. And as we look at, you know, the upcoming New Year 2023 There are so many exciting launches that we're that we're preparing for, and that we're really excited to showcase and, you know, a core value for us as a company and as a team and as individuals is, you know, really elevating and highlighting transparent communication. There's a lot of disparities that we see between, you know, what's being put out there both by large corporations and small innovators that isn't necessarily reflecting on the average consumer and average individual about you know, what really goes into those processes and why we are seeing what we're doing. And so for us, we're really excited to kind of launch, you know, multiple initiatives to engage in these conversations and showcase some of the work that we've been able to do over the last, you know, four and a half years that has been building up to this really, really exciting moment. And super exciting here. So if anyone is listening that wants to reach out and chat to your labs, what is the best way to get in touch. So for anyone that you know, wants to follow us and community is really core to who we are. And we want to make sure that we're constantly staying in touch and collaborating, you know, obviously, following us and shooting us a message on Instagram or Twitter. Alternatively, on our website, keel labs.com, we do have a contact section, which, you know, depending on what your interests are, you'll be directed to the right person or the right resource that will allow us to connect and, and discuss collaborate, hear your feedback.

WTiN
Wonderful. Thank you so much. And that concludes the episode for us. Thank you so much for taking the time to speak with me. This has been fantastic. Thank you. Yeah, thank you as well. It's been such a pleasure and honour and really glad we were able to make this happen. If you have any questions for WTiN, then you can reach out over Twitter, find us at WTiN_comment or you can contact me directly at WTiN and if you fancy sponsoring an episode of the podcast, please email sales@wtin.com. Thank you so much for listening, and we'll see you next month.