Q&A: Seaming performance, execution and evolution
By Daniela Rondinone
WTiN analyses findings on the differing permeability, seam strength and bulk properties of traditional and advanced softshell seaming methods, before looking at recent market developments and altogether alternate technologies.
Key takeaways
- A recent study headed out of Ege University, Türkiye, found that combining ultrasonic and tape welding maintained waterproof, windproof and breathable properties far better than traditional lockstitch methods.
- Market developments continue to push the envelope on alternative seaming and hem performance, prioritising next-to-skin comfort and stretch with products.
- Could the need for seams be minimised instead? WTiN talks with Beth Esponnette, co-founder at Unspun, to walkthrough the fashion-tech company’s Vega 3D-weaving technology, backed by the likes of Decathlon.
The field of textile innovation is advancing quickly, with new methods reshaping how garments are constructed to balance performance, durability and sustainability. From academic research exploring seam-free techniques that preserve fabric functionality, to pioneering companies introducing scalable alternatives to traditional sewing and weaving, these developments are redefining possibilities for technical apparel and fashion applications.
Here, WTiN highlights recent studies on ultrasonic welding in softshell fabrics and showcases industry breakthroughs, offering a glimpse into the future of garment manufacturing.
Academic spotlight: Softshell seam innovation
Purpose
Softshell fabrics are crucial for outdoor, sports and protective apparel. They’re prized for their ability to provide comfort, protect against harsh weather conditions and safeguard breathability. Yet, when transformed into three-dimensional garments, the traditional lockstitch sewing method compromises these properties. The needle used in this process creates holes in the fabric surfaces, which significantly increases air permeability, thereby affecting the fabric’s functional properties.
Addressing this challenge, a recent study titled "Evaluation of alternative joining methods in softshell fabric types" by Serkan Boz et al. investigates sew-free joining techniques for different softshell fabrics [1].
Approach
The study’s goal was to analyse the change in the physical properties of softshell fabrics as a result of joining them with classical and innovative joining methods, using the following parameters:
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