Computational design is fast becoming a driver of sustainable innovation, particularly in the knitwear sector. Italian casualwear brand Napapijri has developed Ze-Knit, a line of contemporary everyday wear produced by digital knitting technology. As a result, the garments are shaped directly into panels ready to assemble which reduces raw material waste by up to 30% compared to traditional manufacturing techniques.
Ze-Knit technology reduces raw material waste by up to 30% compared to traditional manufacturing techniques
Explaining the origin of Ze-Knit, Bhavesh Naik, senior director of Product, Innovation and Sourcing EMEA, says: “At Napapijri, we are hugely invested in our product and material R&D that results in us constantly looking for new materials and techniques to bring into our product range. One of the projects we were working on involved utilising a warp woven technique that developed a really cool effect, but the downside was a huge amount of waste that was just not sustainable. We then started investigating the idea of knitting the garment which led to Ze-Knit and digital knitting.”
The digitalisation of the design and production process allows for mass customisation, with every element of the design being able to be tweaked from body dimensions to the materials used. “The technology is almost limitless in terms of applications, and we really feel it can be the future of apparel,” says Naik. “One of the big areas that the technology can unlock is mass customisation which would completely revolutionise the industry and give the consumer the power to design their clothing the way they want. So, in principal, each item could be as individual as the wearer.”
Recently showcased at Milan Design Week, the urban-inspired Ze-Knit collection features items for men and women
According to Napapijri, the Ze-Knit line of garments is based on ergonomic design principles that focus on the body’s movement to improve comfort and functionality. The digital knit element of the process increases comfort through body zones that provide control and support where needed.
Recently showcased during Milan Design Week (17-22 April) – which Naik describes as a “huge success in terms of visibility, communication and results” – the urban-inspired Ze-Knit collection features items for men and women including jackets, trousers and jumpers. Available in either black or blue, the collection is said to present a ‘form fitting, refined aesthetic’. During the event, Napapijri’s Lab hosted #Futurehood – a hub of workshops, performances, and live social media streams about the future of cities.
Expanding on the functional benefits of Ze-Knit, Naik says: “The Ze-Knit innovation is made possible by computer-controlled knitting technology whereby, similar to 3D printing, knits items follow a digital path. With garments knitted from a single yarn rather than a piece of fabric, the technology removes many of the historical production limitations from the hands of the designers, giving them the flexibility to use various materials, coatings and colours at any stage of the design.
Available in either black or blue, the collection presents a form fitting, refined aesthetic
“As a result, the autumn/winter 2018 Ze-Knit collection has multiple functionalities that are literally woven into the design; ergonomic flex points around the joints allow the items to move in tandem with the body, greatly improving comfort. Elsewhere, boiled wool – a fantastic natural insulator – is used in varying quantities to align with where the body needs it most and, finally, an odour-capturing yarn coating is placed in the underarm to prevent odours escaping.”
Looking to the future, Naik says the focus of Ze-Knit will remain firmly placed on sustainability and mass customisation, which the brand will continue to promote the benefits of.
“The launch of Ze-Knit paves the way for Napapijri to move from a mass production to a demand supply model where every item is made to order, eliminating unnecessary waste,” says Naik. “The digitisation of the design and production process allows for mass customisation, with every element of the design being able to be tweaked from body dimensions to the materials used. With complete garments made in one machine, production can be placed closer to the demand, greatly reducing the carbon footprint of every item.”
He adds: “Ze-Knit allows Napapijri to envisage a not too distance future where a user can order a fully customisable item that is made from scratch and delivered within 24 hours.”
To find out more about Ze-Knit, visit www.zeknit.com.
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