The European Commission has adopted a regulation, tightening restrictions on 33 carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic-for-reproduction (CMR) substances in clothing and textiles.
The rules amend existing restrictions in the REACH chemicals regulation 1907/2006. They set maximum concentration limits for chemicals “particularly harmful in case of frequent contact with human skin”, says the Commission.
Permitted levels range from 1 mg/kg for cadmium, chromium, arsenic and lead, to 3,000 mg/kg for N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF). From 12 October 2020, textiles with CMR substances over these limits cannot be marketed in the EU, regardless of their origin of production.
The substances were selected after “scientific and technical recommendations by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)” and “a broad consultation, including with industry”, a Commission tells WTiN. They can be present from the production process or added intentionally to prevent shrinkage or make fabric crease-resistant, she says, adding, however, that it is very difficult to link cancer, mutagenesis or reproductive problems to the specific article that may have caused it.
The regulation covers ‘other textiles’ like bed linen, as well as clothes. Leather, fur and non-textile fasteners are exempt, as “different chemical substances and processes are used in their production.”
Carpets and floor coverings are also excluded, due to “potential regulatory overlap and because other substances may be relevant for them.”
And until 12 October 2023, formaldehyde used in jackets, coats and upholstery, will have a 300mg/kg limit, so textile manufacturers can adapt to the 75mg/kg restriction. This is due to lack of information on suitable alternatives, says the Commission.
Mauro Scalia, sustainable business director of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX), welcomes the “EU’s effort to increase consumer protection”. But he emphasises that industry already uses voluntary systems setting requirements for CMR chemicals, such as the ZDHC Foundation’s MRSL (manufacturing restricted substances list) and Oeko-Tex and ZDHC certification.
Scalia warns that the law “may ultimately increase verification costs of European and global businesses which already observe legislation and customer requirements,” adding that, “without proper market surveillance mechanisms”, the rules may not ensure consumer and environmental safety.
