Knitting is in the blood for Kate Mischler of ELKA Knitwear. The Auckland-based, New Zealand fashion designer was taught to knit by her Russian grandmother when she was five years old and she has been knitting ever since.
(Left) rib neck dress in glacier blue, and (right) hand knit cashmere possum silk ruffle top
“I have been knitting all my life,” Mischler told WTiN. “For years I have been making garments for commissions and other bespoke pieces.”
It was this love of knitting and the demand for the bespoke pieces that saw Mischler establish her own label, ELKA Knitwear, in 2012 and many of the garments in her range make a special feature of her hand knitting origins.
The name ELKA reflects Mischler’s Russian heritage and means ‘tree’. To Mischler, the needles of the pine tree are reminiscent of knitting needles and the name therefore resonates with her business, which has been founded on hand knitting.
Kate Mischler, designer and founder of ELKA Knitwear, wearing a rib neck dress in glacier blue
From the outset, Mischler was determined that her business would remain firmly New Zealand made and she is committed to creating a sustainable fashion label using possum fibre.
“I am really firm in the belief that my range needs to be made in New Zealand,” she says. “It will never be mass produced as it is a niche product made from sustainable possum fibre from New Zealand’s wilderness.”
Mischler’s love affair with possum fibre was a case of instant attraction. “Once I discovered this unique fibre, it was love at first touch,” she explains.
She believes possum fibre is New Zealand’s answer to cashmere and is in many ways even better.
“After all my years in the knitwear industry, New Zealand possum fibre is superior to anything I have come across,” she says. “It has very special properties and is just as good if not better than cashmere. It is warmer, lighter, doesn’t pill and it is hard-wearing. As soon as I discovered it I knew that was what I wanted for my range.”
She adds: “It is undeniably luxurious and exquisite to wear. Its softly draping qualities evoke movement and people fall absolutely in love with it and keep coming back for more.”
Racing stripe knit pants and Valentina boat neck
Having decided on her fibre, Mischler entered into a relationship with Wellington-based Woolyarns New Zealand to source her yarn.
“They do an extremely good job of engineering the yarn and the possum fibre blend is so unique,” she says.
“It is such an achievement on their part to create this beautiful yarn and at their request I was happy to create a collection using their Perino yarn for display at Pitti Filati in Florence and Spinexpo in Shanghai four years ago.”
“A small capsule collection of knitwear is developed and presented at trade shows to demonstrate our yarn’s uniqueness, versatility and softness,” says Jimad Khan, the Woolyarns New Zealand marketing manager.
“Kate’s exquisite designs combined with her passion for made in New Zealand products made for a perfect collaboration. The collection successfully helped promote brushtail possum fibre and Perino yarns internationally.”
Mischler said that while in the past possum fibre had been known mainly for its use in the tourist and outdoor lifestyle sectors, she knew it was the fibre for her when it came to designing her own high fashion collection.
“I love possum fibre and I didn’t see any reason why it could not be used in the fashion market as well,” she explains.
That 70s dress
ELKA Wild is the name given to Mischler’s possum fibre collection, which comprises tunics, dresses, cardigans, jumpers, ponchos, skivvies, bodysuits and accessories. The range includes a neutral palette as well as a selection of monochromatic hues.
“The pieces we create are so timeless so would appeal to women and men from around 20 to 80 years of age,” she says. “Although we do have some sized garments, the ELKA Wild collection comprises generous shapes and sizes to suit different body shapes, heights and ages.”
Sustainability and environmental protection are core to Mischler’s ethic at ELKA Knitwear and given that the entire operation is 100% New Zealand made, including packaging, from January 2019, ELKA will be using compostable bags and recycled paper tags for all its garments.
“Fashion is what drives me and it is very important that we are using a sustainable yarn and good environmental practices,” says Mischler.
“It is a win-win situation for the New Zealand economy also as it is not only great for our customers, who love the feel of the garments, but also because it provides a humane way to help control the possum population in New Zealand and therefore contribute to a sustainable industry.”
In addition to the local market in New Zealand, ELKA Knitwear is now available to the international market with garments in many parts of the world.
“We are beginning to market overseas and especially with the smaller editions of my collection, I know where in the world my garments are,” says Mischler.
“It is really rewarding to know they are liked and appreciated in other countries and not just in New Zealand.”
As for the future, Mischler says it’s a case of onwards and upwards and stresses that it’s important to educate people about the very special properties of possum fibre.
“It is a work in progress,” she explains. “I have lots more ideas in the pipeline but these need time and resources to bring them to life. While our business will continue to be hands-on with our hand finished manufacturing in Auckland, ideally we would like to get to the stage where we can have more people working with us to help endorse possum fibre’s presence on the world stage.
“I believe that fashion should be fun and uncomplicated. It should offer quality and comfort without sacrificing style and that is why I am passionate about possum fibre and want to share my love for this wonderful fibre with everyone else.”
All photos courtesy of ELKA Knitwear.
