As our understanding of the dangers of microfibres increases, authorities and brands begin to look for ways to reduce their impact.
Currently, there are no official testing methods to evaluate fibre shedding in garments and fabrics. And with no standard benchmark available, it is therefore hard to evaluate whether a fabric is good or bad in terms of its fibre shredding properties.
However, SGS – a testing laboratories company headquartered in Switzerland – has now developed an in-house method for microfibre testing and is collaborating with relevant standards organisations to draft a new test method.
Microfibres are plastic particulates that are typically fractions of a millimetre in diametre and are less than 5 mm long. A principle source of microfibres seems to be textiles, particularly garments and household textiles that require regular laundering. Microfibres are released during the washing process, allowing them to enter our waterways because wastewater treatment systems are currently unable to filter them out.
Laundry requires the garment to be agitated in the washing machine to get the detergent to work and this causes damage to the fabric’s surface. Fleece products made from synthetic fibres, which have fabric surfaces that are mechanically damaged to create the raised surface required for hand-feel and thermal resistance properties, are particularly prone to fibre shredding in the wash. These products typically shred significantly more microfibres during a standard domestic wash than plain fabrics.
Part of the concern with microfibres is their ability to absorb harmful chemical substances, such as phthalates (commonly found as a plasticiser but restricted in both US and European Union markets in finished garment products) and lead. Since research has shown that microfibres can be found in the digestive tracts of many small aquatic organisms, these harmful chemicals will become concentrated as they move up the food chain and could potentially be harmful by the time they reach us.
The full impact of natural water supplies contaminated with plastic is now becoming clear. It is common to read stories about the Great Pacific Garbage Patch – a floating island of plastic debris – but what is less well known is the damage being done by microfibres. Things are changing, and this almost hidden problem is beginning to regularly appear in the news. As authorities and the public become aware of the issue, pressure is mounting on governments to introduce restrictions, and on manufacturers to find alternatives.
As the threat of microfibres becomes understood, several organisations and authorities are introducing measures to address the problem. These include the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), the European Cross Industry Agreement Group (CIA), the US Government and the EU. The OIA has made microfibres one of its seven priority issues under its sustainability work group, and the CIA has begun technical meetings to address the problem.
Additionally, the US state of California is currently considering a law to emphasise the fibre shredding properties of polyester-made garments and fabrics, and the European Commission has asked the European Chemicals Agency to prepare proposals for possible restrictions concerning microplastic particles on consumer products. The US has also passed the Microbead-Free Waters Act of 2015, a Federal law banning rinse-off cosmetic products that contain intentionally added plastic microbeads, that came into effect in January 2018.
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