Robert Charnock, chairman of Huddersfield cloth merchant Dugdale Bros & Co, shares his experience of working with a spectrum of cloths and explores which fabrics perform best in colder climates.
Within the tailoring world, it goes without saying that when it comes to autumn and winter, fabrics which are heavier in weight and more durable are the ones which make it to the cutting table.
However, it’s not just the delicate insulating properties of certain textiles that should be taken into account when searching for the perfect cloth composition. Comfort and breathability are two pivotal areas not to be overlooked.
When it comes to crafting timeless suiting ensembles and overcoating pieces, there are many fabrics to be considered for autumn/winter. But what’s important to bear in mind – when choosing the one which is right for you – is the level of warmth, protection and durability.
So, for tailoring professionals who want to tick both the style and quality boxes this year, these five fabrics from Dugdale Bros should be on your suiting radar.
Twist Travel Flannel
A firm favourite for the cooler seasons, flannel is widely celebrated across the tailoring industry for its inimitable heat retention and softness.
Yet in addition to the cloth’s premium feel, our Twist Travel Flannel is also incredibly lightweight – at 10.5oz – meaning that it’s versatile in its wearability. In other words, if the weather doesn’t warrant heavyweight wool garments, this option is a luxuriously light alternative which still keeps the wearer warm.
The plain weave and milled nano finish give this cloth its lightweight and breathable properties, while also adding a few extremely practical dimensions not usually associated with flannel – shower and stain resistance, plus crease recovery.
And these are just a few of the many reasons this collection is referred to as the ultimate choice for the modern-day traveller.
As well as possessing all the character and benefits associated with a fine travel cloth, an innovative two-tone twisted thread across the weft leaves each pattern with a warm melange aspect to each of the patterns, spanning plain, striped and puppy tooth variations.
Royal Classic Vantage
Weighing in at 12oz, the Royal Classic Vantage collection is slightly heavier than the Twist Travel Flannel, and its enduring sophistication has seen it develop into a sartorial staple.
An upgrade on our original Royal Classic range, which was first introduced in 1957, the Vantage series maintains the acclaimed functionality and durability of the original, but features a palette of fresh patterns and colourways.
When examining what makes the 100% wool fabric so popular for autumn/winter tailoring, its tight weave and robust handle are at the top of the list, offering supreme insulation and weather-resistance.
As a result, this medium-weight cloth lends itself well to crafting suiting and sports jackets for style-conscious men and women.
The White Rose Sporting Tweed & Tattersall
Tweed is one of the most widely used wool fabrics when it comes to enduring the chillier climes, and this collection – with its melange of greens and browns – is reminiscent of the picturesque Yorkshire landscape.
Originally launched in the 1960s, The White Rose Sporting Tweed & Tattersall recently underwent a revamp to align with contemporary trends and tastes. Today, it’s a tweed collection which radiates sophistication in autumn/winter, as well as offering a completely robust composition.
Weighing 22.2oz, this 100% British wool textile is a go-to choice for tailors looking to craft outerwear that is both durable and protective in nature, and produce garments which can effortlessly defend against the elements.
Comprising a smorgasbord of patterns and colours, including check, overcheck, herringbone and windowpane weaves, this tweed series is an elegant suiting option for both field events and townwear.
The White Rose Caldonaire
The White Rose Caldonaire was first woven in 1911. Revamped in 2018, it makes the list of autumn/winter staples for its timeless versatility.
The entire end-to-end process of this 100% Shetland wool range – including the dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing – is completed within a 20-mile radius of Huddersfield. And it’s the region’s soft water properties which give the fabric its delicate handle and lustrous finish.
Offering a selection of lighter-weight tweeds – 14.1oz – this collection is an ideal choice for sartorial craftsmen looking to produce overcoats and outerwear which provide warmth without feeling heavy.
Luxury Lambswool
Luxury Lambswool is one of our most luxurious materials. Like The White Rose Caldonaire, this textile has been sourced, woven and spun in the local Huddersfield area – a town in the centre of Yorkshire’s worsted industry, which carries an illustrious clothmaking heritage.
One of our heavier bunches, Luxury Lambswool cloths are woven from 100% lambswool yarns and weigh in at 22oz. The naturally insulating characteristics of this yarn make it an unparalleled choice when it comes to crafting bespoke or made-to-measure overcoating apparel. But it isn’t just the warmth that makes this fabric so popular with wearers.
Together, the traditional weave and overall thickness ensure insulation, softness and excellent drape, culminating in an end product that goes the extra mile where a luxurious and indulgent feel is concerned.
Affording a rich depth and weight, without feeling bulky, this fabric is wonderful at protecting against the colder weather. The combination of softness and full-bodied finish also make this an elegant, modish and premium-quality cloth selection.
- View the Dugdale Bros collections mentioned in this article at www.dugdalebros.com or contact the sales team on +441484 421772 to order a bunch.
